Pass the Salt

Asparagus is a very weird looking vegetable – even more so when you see it in the ground. A single shoot pokes its way up through the bare soil like a periscope; a whole crop appears like an army on a blasted field.

It’s the lack of leaves that makes this crop looks so strange, but that’s a blessing for the pickers who have the backbreaking job of cutting each new crop of soldiers down – at least they can see each stalk as it appears.

Unfortunately, their solitary visibility also makes it easier for the hares who simply adore nibbling the fresh tender tips. The 10 hectare crop of asparagus I photographed is in Hawke’s Bay. It’s guarded by two fox terriers who spring into action whenever they see a pair of long ears appear over the plough lines. Nellie and Eddie give the hares a good run around but they have yet to catch one, which is a shame because a hare that’s grazed on asparagus tips must taste fantastic.

I love asparagus. Asparagus with hollandaise, asparagus with softly boiled eggs; asparagus with chicken, and asparagus with butter and parmesan cheese.

Here’s my recipe for asparagus risotto.

Asparagus Risotto

The asparagus should be absolutely fresh with tight tips. Use a good risotto rice like Gabriele Ferron from Verona.

1 bundle asparagus (8-10 stalks)

1 shallot, finely chopped
1 stick celery, finely chopped
olive oil
1 ½  cups risotto rice
¼ cup white wine
1 ¼  litres chicken stock
50g butter
50g parmesan, grated
salt and pepper

Snap tough ends off asparagus, discard, and cut each stalk into 3 pieces.

Bring stock to a simmer in saucepan. Add asparagus pieces and simmer for about 3 mins until just tender. Remove from stock and set aside.

Heat oil in a high-sided sauté pan and gently fry the shallot and celery until soft.

Add risotto rice and stir until the grains are coated in oil then add wine and allow it to evaporate. Start adding stock, a ladle at a time. Keep stirring the rice so it doesn’t stick to the pan and as the liquid evaporates continue to add more.

When the rice is nearly cooked add the asparagus and continue to cook, adding stock until  rice is al dente (firm to the bite). Add the butter and parmesan, season to taste, stir and then cover the pan for 5 minutes before serving on heated plates.

Serves 4