Whatever happened to autumn? Here in Wellington the southerly has blasted us headlong into winter. Easter seems a little early to be sitting in front of a fire but the upside to all the inside days we’ve been having is a rediscovered urge to bake. For someone who thinks a cake tin is where people go to watch rugby, it’s noteworthy that I’m on to my third walnut cake in less than a week.
I had forgotten how good this cake is. Dense, moist and delicious with coffee, it’s a regional speciality of the Périgord region of South West France. The recipe was given to me by my French friend Sylvie, who I met when we lived in France a few years’ ago. It’s her grandmother’s recipe and it starts with the instruction to “casse-noix”, break open the walnuts. In an area where everyone has a walnut tree or two, you would never buy nuts in a packet. I’m convinced that’s what makes this cake taste so good.
Here is the original recipe handwrittten by la mère de Sylvie.
And here’s the easy version…
Gâteau aux Noix
200g freshly shelled walnuts
12 walnut halves for decoration
100g unsalted butter
200g caster sugar
4 eggs, separated
Preheat oven to 160°C (fan bake). Butter and line the base of a shallow 24cm cake tin.
Chop walnuts very finely in a food processor. Cream butter and sugar together until smooth. Stir in egg yolks and ground walnuts. Whip egg whites until firm (or as the French would say, ‘au bec d’ouiseau’, like a bird’s beak). Gently fold egg whites into cake mixture. Spread evenly into cake tin and bake for 40 – 45 mins or until cooked through. A skewer should come out cleanly.
Cool for 10 mins before turning out of tin. Flip over so cake is the right way up, dust with icing sugar and arrange walnut halves on top.
Serve when cool or just warm with softly whipped cream or, even better, a jug of Biofarm Organic Bush Honey Yoghurt, made by my Tait-Jameison in-laws in Palmerston North.